Health benefits

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redistributed as long as this notice is retained. It may not be sold.

So far I”ve discussed cadence and gearing, the methods by which power is
converted to speed. Today I want to talk the methods by which food and
water are converted to power, how to optimize those methods for cycling,
and maybe throw in a few more cyclist health issues.

As I mentioned in the article on cadence, your muscles have two fuels:
glucose and glycogen. Glucose circulates in the bloodstream; it is
extracted from foods you eat (carbohydrates) and combines with oxygen
to power your muscles (via a complex reaction I won”t get into here).
The by-products of this reaction are water and carbon dioxide. The
CO2 is circulated to the lungs for exhalation, and the water is pushed
to the surface as sweat (usually). Glycogen (really just another form
of glucose) is stored in the muscles. It produces power via a faster
but less efficient reaction needing no oxygen. The drawbacks to using
glycogen are that one of its by-products is lactic acid, which causes
muscle soreness, and that you have only a limited amount in storage–
about 10 minutes worth. Glycogen is replaced very slowly; a good
night”s sleep will replace about two-thirds of a depleted glycogen
supply, so cyclists want to use glucose for their power as much
as possible. The best way to do this is to keep your cadence high;
see Cadence for details.

Protein is used to build and repair muscles. The meat and dairy
industries want you to think that protein provides power, but it
does not. Cycling does not require large muscles, so protein is
not that important; most Americans will get enough protein for
cycling in their daily diet, and therefore shouldn”t worry about it.
Vegan Death Warriors probably should consider protein sources, but
non-vegan vegetarians probably get enough for cycling.

Carbohydrates are what power your muscles. Complex carbohydrates, such
as pasta, take longer to break down and therefore provide fuel over
a longer period of time; this makes them good food to eat the day or
two before athletic activity. Simple carbohydrates (sugars) break down
quickly and are good fuel just before and during rides.

Water is all-important. You need water to digest your food; it also
provides most of your cooling in the form of sweat. Your thirst impulses
are not enough to keep up with your need for water when cycling;
drink before you are thirsty and drink more than you think you need.
If you drink too much water you just piss it out; if you drink too
little you can suffer from heat frustration or worse. This happened
to me on a hot day in Livermore a couple weeks ago, and it”s no fun.

Some cycling authorities espouse the value of salt, some going so far
as to advocate salt tablets while cycling. I personally don”t find
this useful; I tend to eat a lot of salty foods (as do most
Americans) and while I certainly sweat out a lot of salt, I”ve never
felt a real need to supplement my salt intake. But every body is
different; if you get muscle cramps while riding, more salt is
indicated.

One note: while your muscles can use either glucose or glycogen, your
brain can use only glucose. That”s why it”s important to keep your
blood glucose levels up; at the top of long climbs you should be careful
to ensure you”re not woozy before plummeting down the descent.

That”s the groundwork; now some specific suggestions:

GENERAL DIET: I should put a big disclaimer here; not only am I not a
health expert, I don”t even eat all that well. I think what”s important
is improving your diet within your existing dietary framerwork rather
than trying to come up with an entirely new diet; the former is far
more likely to take permanance. I”ll try here to provide some
guidelines for improving your diet, with full knowledge that nobody,
including me, is going to follow them all. Health is an incremental
process.

Avoid dairy products. They have a lot of fat and cholesterol and don”t
provide much usefulness for cycling. By “avoid” I don”t mean “swear off
completely”; just don”t order extra cheese on pizza, watch out for
cream sauces on pasta, don”t lather too much cream cheese on your bagels,
etc. Dairy products taste good and are versatile, which is why they
are ubiquitous; just don”t go out of your way to consume them.

Avoid meats. Again, I eat meat all the time, but it”s with the knowledge
that I could be eating something better for me. Instead of ordering
all-meat pizza, have mushrooms, onions, or green peppers. Order a
single burger with fries rather than a double burger without. At a
Mexican place, order a chicken burrito rather than a beef burrito, or,
even better, a bean burrito. Mexican food is good in general, so is
Chinese or Japanese, but consider something other than the sushi or
the sizzling steak cubes.

Eat grains. The reason there was such a big deal about oat bran a couple
years back was that people who eat oatmeal for breakfast are not eating
eggs, bacon, or donuts. It”s not a panacea but it”s pretty good. In the
mornings I usually have a bowl of oatmeal (2 packs of instant), sometimes
with a banana chopped up in it; this makes for a filling, tasty, cheap, and
fairly quick breakfast. Oatmeal is good, cereals are good (again,
go easy on the milk), rice, hops, whatever. A diet based entirely
on grains and fruits would probably be excellent for cycling; me, I
can only eat grains and fruits for so long, but it”s a good thing to
aspire to.

BEFORE/DURING RIDES: Before and during rides, you want simple carbohydrates
in easily digestable forms. The important thing is to eat LIGHT! I”ve
had burgers at stops on rides and regretted it immensely later. On the
day of a ride I”ll eat nothing heavier than a muffin until afterwards.
Bananas are great food and are really cheap; they can be a pain to
carry, though, and dealing with the peel can be a problem in urban
areas. I like Nutri-Grain Cereal Bars on rides; they”re not that
filling, they taste good, and they”re reasonably priced. Some people,
of course, go in for PowerBars and the like, which are good nutritionally
but are expensive and tasteless. Candy bars are actually reasonably
good, although they tend to melt.

Always be aware that you need a certain amount of water to properly
digest your sugars and salts. Similarly, you need a certain amount of
sugars to properly digest your water; without them it tends to slosh
around in your stomach being useless. A dash of salt is also helpful.
The human-power airplane project, Daedelus, used a drink containing
water, 100 grams/liter of glucose, and 1 gram/liter of salt. Not
a particlarly tasty beverage, but you get the idea.

OTHER CYCLING HEALTH PROBLEMS:

Cycling is generally a healthy way to exercise; it”s low-impact and
almost fully aerobic (when done properly). I”m just going to list here
some of the more common problems and ways to avoid them.

PAINS IN THE ASS: For casual cyclists, rear-end pain is the most common
problem. There are two types; a deep soreness that feels like it”s in
the bones, and a surface chafing. The deep soreness comes from being
unaccustomed to riding; ride more and it goes away. Softer saddles do
not help; your saddle is a cradle for your pelvic bones, not a
cushon for your rear end. Chafing can be more of a problem; it”s
usually caused by shorts that don”t fit well or are soaked with sweat.
As sweat and bacteria get into the chafed skin they can cause infections
that can be serious; just about every year someone drops out of the
Tour de France with saddle sores. You can avoid these by always wearing
snug, clean, dry shorts, and by getting your ass off the saddle on
downhills to let the wind dry out your crotch.

PAINS IN THE BACK: Mountain bike users will probably have to deal with
lower back pain on longer rides; this is due to the upright riding
position which puts more strain on your lower back. Raising your seat
and lowering your handlebars may help by putting more of your weight
forward.

Road bike riders sometimes have to deal with pain in the upper back and
shoulders; this is a result of having to hold your head up for extended
periods of time. It will go away as you ride more; doing exercises that
strengthen neck and shoulder muscles should help, too.

PAINS IN THE HAND: Hand pain and numbness are fairly common on long rides.
You can combat them by changing hand position on your bars (mountain bikers
need to buy bar-ends, which is what the industry wants you to do), and
by wearing cycling gloves and/or using padded handlebar tape.

PAINS IN THE ER, YEAH, THAT: Both men and women sometimes complain of
genital soreness or numbness after cycling. Good women”s saddles often
have a hole cut in the frame under the, er, affected area. Guys can try
adjusting the saddle position (bearing in mind that tilting it back
is as likely to help as tilting it forward) or wearing a jockstrap or
more supportive shorts. Sometimes, the condition is so serious that hormonal treatments are required.

KNEE PROBLEMS: Cycling actually has helped my knees and ankles which used
to be pretty bad. When done improperly, though, it can cause problems.
The two most common causes of knee problems when cycling are low cadence
and low saddle height. Since most casual cyclists use too low a cadence
and adjust their saddle too low, they feel cycling hurts their knees.
As I”ve said, cadence should be between 80 and 100 RPM. Your saddle
should be adjusted so that your leg is almost completely extended at
the bottom of the pedal revolution.

In conclusion, cycling is a fairly healthy endeavour; if you are treating
your body well it will probably be in fine shape for cycling. Cycling
nutrition is basically parallel to the ideas of general nutrition, and
most common cycling injuries (other than the falling-off-the-bike type)
are preventable and not serious. Ride Bike!

\r\n

Gearing

This document is copyright © 1995 by Tom Holub. It may be freely
redistributed as long as this notice is retained. It may not be sold.

In the last installment I discussed the role of maintaining proper
cadence in improving cycling enjoyment and endurance (if you missed it,
it”s in Cadence). The purpose of a bicycle gearing
system, as with an automobile gearing system, is to keep the engine
operating within a certain range of RPM (for a car, 2000-5000ish; for a
bike, 80-100). Because the RPM range on a bike is much more restricted,
bicycles need finer gradations between gears, and because of other
engineering considerations, bike gearing is harder to use than car
gearing. For this reason and others, many cyclists never learn how to
use their gearing system (even those cyclists who buy mountain bikes
because they have “21 speeds”). But really it”s not that hard, and
since bike components have improved markedly in the past 15 years,
shifting is easier now than ever, especially on inexpensive bikes
(unless they have Shimano under-bar shifters, but that”s another rant).

First, we need to get some terms out of the way, then I”ll add a bit on
how gearing works from a rider”s view, and then a more technical
discussion of what goes into a gearing system and how to set up your own
(non-geeks can skip the last part).

DEFINITIONS:

The chain runs on the CHAINRINGS in front and the FREEWHEEL in back (the
FREEWHEEL is so called because it floats freely on the hub, allowing you
to coast or pedal backwards; early bikes couldn”t do either). The
freewheel is made up of five to eight COGS (most modern bikes have
seven, though 8 is becoming more popular. I”m going to assume 7 for
this document). The FRONT DERAILLEUR moves the chain between chainrings
by pushing on the tense (top) part of the chain. The REAR DERAILLEUR
takes up (or lets out) slack in the chain, and moves the chain between
freewheel cogs by moving the slack (bottom) part of the chain
underneath the desired cog. The SHIFTERS are levers that move the
derailleurs by pulling on the DERAILLEUR CABLES. The notation for the
current gear involves a character denoting the chainring and a number
denoting the cog. The small chainring is usually denoted L, the large
usually H, the middle, if it exists, M. The largest cog is denoted 1,
so L1 is the smallest chainring, largest cog.

OK, now down to basics. What your gearing system does is change the
ratio between your pedal revolutions and wheel revolutions. “Low” gears
have a small number of wheel revolutions per pedal revolution (the
lowest gears on bikes with 3 chainrings can go below 1:1 ratios). High
gears have more wheel revolutions per pedal revolution; the highest
gears get up to about 4 wheel revolutions per pedal revolution. The
gearing system is able to change this ratio by changing the effective
size of the wheel and the cranks (by moving to larger or smaller cogs or
chainrings). Smaller chainrings make for lower gears because they
reduce the length of chain that is pulled around in a pedal revolution.
Larger cogs make for lower gears because they require more chain to be
pulled to turn them. So you are in your lowest gear when the chain is
on the smallest chainring and the largest cog (inverse for the highest
gear). In the notation discussed above, this is “L1.”

Many people believe (incorrectly) that their bike has two sets of gears:
“low” ones when the chain is on the small chainring, and “high” ones
when the chain is on the large chainring. In fact there is considerable
overlap between the two, and each bike has a calculable ideal shifting
pattern that requires at least one crossover between chainrings (many
shifting patterns require more). For details on calculating the
shifting pattern of your bike, see below.

However, it”s not really necessary to calculate and remember your
shifting pattern to get more out of your gearing system. Just remember
three things: One, you need to cross over to the large chainring
somewhere in the middle of your freewheel; that is, if you climb a hill
in your lowest gear (L1) and want to shift up after the hill ends, you
can shift to L2, then L3, then maybe L4, but before you get too far you
want to get onto the large chainring by shifting to H2 or possibly H3
(that”s a double-shift to a larger chainring, larger cog). You can
actually get by shifting directly across (L3 to H3) but should be
careful not to let your cadence drop too much.

Two, if you have a triple chainring, your smallest chainring is probably
what is called a “granny”; very low gears for big hills. With a granny
you use only the biggest 2 or 3 cogs (L1, L2, L3); if you need a higher
gear you should get back on the middle chainring. L1 and L2 are usually
far lower than M1, L3 is usually pretty close to M1. If you go much
above the third cog on the smallest chainring, you will probably throw
your chain.

Three, NEVER use the largest chainring, largest cog, or smallest
chainring, smallest cog combinations (H1 or L7), for two reasons.
First, the steep angle the chain has to take causes excessive wear on
the chain, the cogs, and the chainrings. But more importantly, these
combinations tax the ability of the rear derailleur to deal with the
slack in the chain. The H1 combination can immediately jam the chain if
the chain is a link too short, and the L7 combination usually puts more
slack into the chain than the derailleur is able to take up; when the
chain is too slack, any jolt or bump can knock it off the cogs. Thrown
chains (along with flat tires) are the most common cycling problem,
mostly because people insist on riding in the L7 gear. It”s somewhat
natural, because in this position both the derailleurs are “relaxed” (no
tension on the cable) and the shifters are usually both in the same
position. But it”s a bad idea and in any case it”s usually a redundant
gear that H5 or H6 can replace easily.

That”s about all you really *need* to know to shift effectively. For
the whole story, read on.

The original bicycles were known as “high-wheelers” or
“penny-farthings,” the former because the front wheel was huge, the
latter because the difference in size between the front and rear wheels
was similar to the difference in size between a penny and a farthing.
The cyclist sat high up on the front wheel and turned cranks mounted on
the axle. As you might imagine, these bikes were highly dangerous; when
the chain-drive bike was invented (fortunately, not too long after the
penny-farthing) it was known as the “safety bicycle.”

The front wheel was huge because a larger wheel travels further with
each pedal revolution. By changing wheels, cyclists could shift to a
lower or higher “gear.” It was a cumbersome system, but one thing from
it remains to this day; gears on “safety bicycles” are measured in
“gear-inches.” A gear of 50 gear-inches (usually written as a “50-inch
gear”) has the same gear ratio (wheel turns:pedal turns) as a
high-wheeler with a front wheel 50 inches in diameter. The safety
bicycle gives another advantage over the penny-farthing here; the
maximum gear on a penny-farthing is limited by the length of the
cyclist”s legs (since he has to reach the pedals in the middle of the
wheel). Top gear on most road bikes is usually 100+ inches.

You can figure out your ideal shifting pattern by computing the
gear-inches of each of your gear combinations and putting them in a
little chart (see below). Beware that gear-inches are on a logarithmic,
not linear, scale. The formula for gear-inches is:

number of teeth on chainring
—————————- * diameter of wheel in inches.
number of teeth on cog

(or * )

When you think about it, this makes sense. When the number of teeth on
the chainring is equal to the number of teeth on the cog, one revolution
of the pedals produces one revolution of the wheel; therefore one
revolution of the pedals produces the same wheel motion as one
revolution of pedals attached directly to the wheel would. The biggest
problem is counting the teeth; some chainrings and cogs have the number
of teeth etched into the side, but most you have to count by hand. An
experienced eye can make good guesses, though.

For posterity”s sake, here are the gearings on my bikes. There”s a cool
Hypercard stack, ~tom/bikestuff/Bike_Gear.sea.hqx, that will do the
calculations for you and print out a cool graph on a logarithmic scale,
but to just generate the numbers is a fairly simple C/perl program if
someone wants to do it.

First, my Traveler, the bike I usually take on CSUA rides. It”s set up
for road riding without much extra weight; it has 2 chainrings and 7
freewheel cogs.

L H
_____________
| 44 | 54 | 1 The optimal shifting pattern is something like
|—–|—–| L1-L2-L3-L4-L5-H4-H5-H6-H7. The L5-H4 shift is a pain,
| 49 | 61 | 2 so usually I will do L4-H4 or L5-H5. This is known as
|—–|—–| Alpine gearing because it gives lots of high and lots
| 57 | 70 | 3 of low gears for big hills. 44 gear-inches is not a
|—–|—–| particularly low gear but it usually suits my purposes
| 67 | 83 | 4 for this bike. 117 inches is quite a big gear,
|—–|—–| bigger than I really need, but it”s great for Bear
| 76 | 94 | 5 Creek Road and other big descents. This is my
|—–|—–| recreational bike, after all.
| 87 | 108 | 6 Note that L7 and H1 are virtually duplicated.
|—–|—–|
| 94 | 117 | 7
————-

This one is for my Voyageur, the bike I use for touring and usually
commuting (as well as riding in the rain). It has a good rack, fenders,
sizable tires, and other features that make it good for riding with
weight. It has a triple chainring and 7 freewheel cogs.

L M H
___________________
| 31 | 49 | 59 | 1 This setup I made myself; the idea is that the
|—–|—–|—–| L ring takes care of all the really low gears,
| 34 | 54 | 65 | 2 so it”s possible to have a very narry spacing on
|—–|—–|—–| the other two chainrings (I don”t really need
| 38 | 60 | 73 | 3 super-high gears when touring or commuting, as
|—–|—–|—–| opposed to recreational riding). The shift
| 43 | 68 | 83 | 4 pattern is something like L1-L2-L3-M1-M2-M3-M4-
|—–|—–|—–| M5-M6-H4-H5-H6-H7. Again, the M6-H4 shift is
| 46 | 73 | 89 | 5 a pain and usually becomes M5-H5 or something.
|—–|—–|—–| Because of this I think this system is suboptimal
| 50 | 79 | 96 | 6 but for my uses it is adequate. Note that
|—–|—–|—–| while this bike has more “speeds” it actually
| 54 | 86 | 104 | 7 has a lower top end.
——————-

This last one is for my MB-3. It”s a mountain bike, obviously, with
a triple chainring and 7 freewheel cogs. It has a rack but rarely
carries much weight.

L M H
___________________
| 21 | 33 | 40 | 1 Mountain bikes need very low gears to get up
|—–|—–|—–| short, steep sections of trail with poor traction.
| 24 | 38 | 46 | 2 The granny ring combined with a fairly large
|—–|—–|—–| rear cluster provides a lower than 1:1 ratio
| 27 | 43 | 52 | 3 when needed (mountain bike wheels are about 26
|—–|—–|—–| inches in diameter). The rest of the pattern
| 31 | 49 | 60 | 4 is known as Crossover; so called because you
|—–|—–|—–| can cross over at basically any point. L1-L2-L3-
| 37 | 58 | 70 | 5 M1-M2-M3-M4-H4-H5 etc. or M1-M2-M3-M4-M5-H5 are
|—–|—–|—–| fine patterns, and M3-H3 or M6-H6 also work.
| 42 | 66 | 80 | 6 This flexibility is useful on the trail, since
|—–|—–|—–| you often find yourself needing a higher or
| 48 | 76 | 92 | 7 lower gear quickly and without warning. The
——————- tradeoff is larger average gaps between gears
and a smaller range (note the top end is just 92
inches).

The other major gearing pattern, used on some mountain/touring bikes, is
called Half-Step Plus Granny. It”s for triple chainrings and the
optimal shift pattern is something like L1-L2-L3-M1-M2-H2-M3-H3-M4-H4
etc. Bike magazines tend to honk on mightily about the virtues of
half-step gearing, which is just more evidence that bike magazines
don”t have a clue about how actual cyclists ride. Sure the pattern is
easy to remember but nobody, and I mean NOBODY, does that many double
shifts. If you”re choosing gearing for a bike, look for a setup with no
more than one double-shift. The possible exception would be on bikes
with bar-end shifters (hi kube) since they make double shifts fairly
easy if you often keep your hands near the end of the bars. I had
bar-end shifters and a half-step plus granny system on my Voyageur when
I first got it and hated it. But to each his own.

Anyway, the routes for this Sunday”s ride are in ~tom/bikestuff/routes/
6-26-94. We”re leaving Evans at 11 AM and taking BART to Orinda. If
the weather I had yesterday is any indication, it should be beautiful,
but be sure to bring lots of water because it will be hot. I recommend
freezing your water bottles the night before. The easy ride is shorter
than most but more hilly; the intermediate ride is shorter than most and
maybe a little more hilly (it”s actually a fairly easy intermediate ride),
and the advanced ride is quite hilly but not too long (it”s somewhat
easier than the last advanced ride through Marin).

See you Sunday. Ride Bike!
-Tom

All done

Okay im pretty much done with the weight loss thing. Mostly into maintaining and no doubt dropping the last unimportant couple of kg. Im seriously into cycling which is awesome, My daughters are both now into cycling as well. This blog as a weight loss blog is pretty much dead but left here for anyone wanting to read it (for whatever reason)

My personal website is at http://wishes.debian.co.nz and of course being a geek i also have http://velofille.com which doesnt have a lot yet. The weight loss info is at http://weight-loss.co.nz which is a MUCH better website.

My new goals are to improve my cycling speed and endurance. I managed to make 18th on my last ride. I was in the first bunch for most of the way but hadnt ridden in 3 weeks so ended up cramping and dropping back in the last 10km.